Hi Everyone,
I decided to take off for Cafajate for a few days - it is another fascinating town south of Salta. I stayed in a Hostel called Rusty K which is run by friends of the family that own this lovely hostel in Salta. Coincidentally a German lass from this hostel was on the same bus so we joined up with each other for a meal on the main square every evening which was always something to look forward to after our various expeditions.
My first day saw me climbing the hill overlooking Las Ruinas des Quilmes. A vast expanse of excavations that were once an ancient indiginous city - only about 15% has been so far uncovered. The Quilmes survived the Incas but were defeated by the incoming Spanish who deported 5000 people to Buenos Aires. They were forced to walk the distance and many died on the way. As I climbed higher the view became more and more spectacular and I became held by the silence of the mountains around me. It reminded me of Delphi in Greece which has an amazing sense of timelessness and spirituality.
I had then asked the little minibus to drop me at Amaiche del Valle where there is a very unusual museum/gallery/sculpture park to Pachamama. She is Mother Earth and has been central to all the indiginous people´s beliefs since time began. The museum is made up of sculptures, gates, gardens, pools and wonderful walls with designs in and on them. Everything is made out of different stones and shapes and shades of grey, white, black and ranges of natural colours. I wandered around amazed and bemused by it all. Lots of symbols for the elements, shamans and Pachamama. Quite extraordinary and wonderful until I fell into a conversation with a French artist who told me that Hector Cruz who was behind the project is a man who is disliked by everyone. He befriended an artist who did all the plans and completed the work, paying him only in wine. The artist died of alcohol poisoning with no acknowledgement of his enormous contribution to the project. Hector also bought the museum just outside the Quilmes Ruins sold all the contents to a museum in Buenos Aires and then proceeded to build a prestigious hotel on the same spot to make himself some money. This is all so not in spirit of the indiginous people and Pachamama - he is a very unpopular man but he is probably the sort of man that doesn´t give a damn anyway.
The following day I went on a trek into the foothills with a small group and a wonderful guide. We went to find the waterfalls. When we set off I had no idea that this walk would also included some rock climbing. Not huge amounts but enough to be glad that our guide Franco knew exactly what he was doing. His knowledge of every crevice, tree, shrub and rock was phenomenal. He has lived all his life in these mountains and knows them like the back of his hand. We all felt very safe as he asked us to scale areas of rock that at first glance seemed impossible. He took us to places that were sacred and special to him and was so generous in his willingness to share them with us. We drank from water filtered down through a huge rocks, we passed deserted houses where the young no longer wanted to live on the mountains so families had moved into the towns and we swam in freezing cold water in the pools below the waterfalls.
Cactus accompanied us all the way. We all felt that we were in the hands of a caring gentle man whose soul was at peace and in harmony with these surroundings. For me it was very special.
The other thing that I loved about Cafajate was the main square and how it came to life at night... specially on Friday night. Bands played, shifting from one music to another; youngsters careered around on hired bikes; people hired tridems and rode sedately; children had their faces painted; dancers (Dirty Dancing type) lured people from the crowd (me) to dance with them also did jaw dropping routines themselves; 3 phenomenal guys from Tucamen played bombos - drums you hang round your neck and play with 2 sticks on an off the skin using the wooden edge as well. Quite amazing ryhthmns and they also performed fantastic dance routines to the sound of the drum. I was completely transfixed. All around the square were restaurants buzzing with life and many of them had guitarists, singers and folkloric dances performing for the delight of the eaters.....and mingling in amongst all this wonderful entertainment were relaxed people wandering around enjoying the warm evening and the joy of each others company. I liked this place.
So know I am back in Salta with the lovely family at the hostel. I am leaving on Thursday which will be a sad moment. This has felt like home and I love them all but it is time to go.....
Hugs and loads of love to you all
Sal xxxxxxxxxxxxx
Tuesday, 25 January 2011
Tuesday, 18 January 2011
Mendoza, Cabalgatas and Salta 18th January 2011
Hi Everyone,
As more seems to happen to me there is less time to write, but this is the moment so I shall just pick out the highlights and bring you all up to date ...........
I loved Mendoza with its beautiful squares, cafes and river channels that ran round the town irrigating the trees - it make me think of Aix en Provence. There is money here and it seems a town that is proud of itself. The hostel was in the middle of clubland with very buzzy restaurants. I arrived at about midnight and just went and sat in a cafe to soak up the atmosphere. Hostel was run by another delightful gang of youngsters who took me to their hearts. I was sleeping in what I can only describe as the laundry cupboard. It had loads of shelves, hangers, shoe wracks and cupboards. It was apparently the dressing room when the house was a more luxurious residence. My little bed was squeezed in the middle. I loved it! The hostel also had a swimming pool which was a big bonus for me.
2 memorable things happened to me in Mendoza. The first was that I had my small rucksack stolen while I was sitting in my favourite cafe. I had placed the bag between my feet and I suddenly realized that it had gone. I swung round in my seat in time to see the man making off with it. I leapt out of my seat and screamed after him yelling at the top of my voice "You´ve got my bloody bag!"or words to that effect. I was furious because in the bag was my second camera that replaced the one that I had had stolen in BA. Either he wasn`t a very experienced thief or it was all too public. Anyway I caught up with him and he meekly gave it back to me. I was very proud of myself!!
The other lovely thing was I booked in to do a 2 day horsetrek (gabalgata) and booking in at the same time was Emilie a delightful Dutch girl. We instantly became huge friends and had the time of our lives fording fast flowing rivers, exploring canyons, finding wild horses,watching condors, riding up ridges and down the other side, camping under the stars with supper cooked for us on a campfire by Diego and Jose our two gauchos. It was very magical.
Emilie was heading for Salta so I decided to go too. Back on the coaches again - an 18 hour trip this time. I love Salta probably more than anywhere else. It has a colonial history and beautiful 18th Century buildings and colonades around the main square. A pink cathedral and some museums that I have really enjoyed, including some interesting contemporary art. Jorge always greets me with a hug at my favourite bar. The villages around Salta are fabulous with loads of tempting things from Peru and Bolivia and other wares all made by local Argentinians. Markets are a haven if you like being tempted! I have done excursions to several villages and they all have their own charm and specialties. Emilie only had a short time in Salta so we did the Salt Plains together which are just that. They stretch for miles with rows of pale turquoise pans where they take off the salt. On the same trip we drove up the gorge where ´The Train in the Clouds´goes. Sadly it is no longer available to tourists as there are many rock falls and is considered too dangerous. So now it just carries gas to Bolivia.
The landscapes are ever changing from precipitous mountain roads, to almost rain forest climate, to plains that are cultivating tobacco. The Mountain heights can be up to 4,000 above sea level and on one excursion we were given coca leaves to chew to help with sickness and headaches and altitude problems. Vast amounts of Coca leaves make cocaine but everyone assured us that this was completely legal!
I am in a delightful, clean (kitchens can be a complete nightmare so this is a real treat) family run hostel called ´Salta por Siempre´. I have been here for about 5 days now and know everyone well. The family invited me to go riding with them. It was mad and magical galloping home by moonlight with fireflies flashing around us. While we were waiting for the horses we all piled into the family truck and went up the hillside to find a cactus for the hostel courtyard. Life is always full of surprises here!
I have just done 2 more days horse riding in a different place. Fabulous food, I had a lovely horse that was responsive and sweet natured called ´Buenamosa´which means Pretty Lady. We all drank far too much wine and consequently the afternoon rides went by in a blur and I am sure helped the sore bum syndrome. Great hammock to snooze in and another lovely family run business - all supervised by Enrique. A larger than life charming Argentinian, father and grandfather who has worked with horses all his life. Gorgeous brother and sister and a little boy called Benjamin. I rode with two funny Swiss guys called Philippe and Tom. Of all races, I have met most Swiss on this trip. I have had very little do with Switzerland so it has been a delight to meet so many people from there.
I am exhausted and need to snooze, so goodnight to you all. Just before I go though, for all those tango friends out there I danced tango in the square the other evening. First time since BA. I was walking passed the bankstand and I heard tango music. So went to have a look. A kind man let me squeeze to the front. After the demo they invited dancers onto the floor. The kind man came and asked me. So with hat in one hand and my small rucksack on my back (not to be stolen again!) we took to the floor. It was good fun and proved to me that I hadn´t forgotten everything.
Sleep well - hugs from me Sal xxxxxxxxx
As more seems to happen to me there is less time to write, but this is the moment so I shall just pick out the highlights and bring you all up to date ...........
I loved Mendoza with its beautiful squares, cafes and river channels that ran round the town irrigating the trees - it make me think of Aix en Provence. There is money here and it seems a town that is proud of itself. The hostel was in the middle of clubland with very buzzy restaurants. I arrived at about midnight and just went and sat in a cafe to soak up the atmosphere. Hostel was run by another delightful gang of youngsters who took me to their hearts. I was sleeping in what I can only describe as the laundry cupboard. It had loads of shelves, hangers, shoe wracks and cupboards. It was apparently the dressing room when the house was a more luxurious residence. My little bed was squeezed in the middle. I loved it! The hostel also had a swimming pool which was a big bonus for me.
2 memorable things happened to me in Mendoza. The first was that I had my small rucksack stolen while I was sitting in my favourite cafe. I had placed the bag between my feet and I suddenly realized that it had gone. I swung round in my seat in time to see the man making off with it. I leapt out of my seat and screamed after him yelling at the top of my voice "You´ve got my bloody bag!"or words to that effect. I was furious because in the bag was my second camera that replaced the one that I had had stolen in BA. Either he wasn`t a very experienced thief or it was all too public. Anyway I caught up with him and he meekly gave it back to me. I was very proud of myself!!
The other lovely thing was I booked in to do a 2 day horsetrek (gabalgata) and booking in at the same time was Emilie a delightful Dutch girl. We instantly became huge friends and had the time of our lives fording fast flowing rivers, exploring canyons, finding wild horses,watching condors, riding up ridges and down the other side, camping under the stars with supper cooked for us on a campfire by Diego and Jose our two gauchos. It was very magical.
Emilie was heading for Salta so I decided to go too. Back on the coaches again - an 18 hour trip this time. I love Salta probably more than anywhere else. It has a colonial history and beautiful 18th Century buildings and colonades around the main square. A pink cathedral and some museums that I have really enjoyed, including some interesting contemporary art. Jorge always greets me with a hug at my favourite bar. The villages around Salta are fabulous with loads of tempting things from Peru and Bolivia and other wares all made by local Argentinians. Markets are a haven if you like being tempted! I have done excursions to several villages and they all have their own charm and specialties. Emilie only had a short time in Salta so we did the Salt Plains together which are just that. They stretch for miles with rows of pale turquoise pans where they take off the salt. On the same trip we drove up the gorge where ´The Train in the Clouds´goes. Sadly it is no longer available to tourists as there are many rock falls and is considered too dangerous. So now it just carries gas to Bolivia.
The landscapes are ever changing from precipitous mountain roads, to almost rain forest climate, to plains that are cultivating tobacco. The Mountain heights can be up to 4,000 above sea level and on one excursion we were given coca leaves to chew to help with sickness and headaches and altitude problems. Vast amounts of Coca leaves make cocaine but everyone assured us that this was completely legal!
I am in a delightful, clean (kitchens can be a complete nightmare so this is a real treat) family run hostel called ´Salta por Siempre´. I have been here for about 5 days now and know everyone well. The family invited me to go riding with them. It was mad and magical galloping home by moonlight with fireflies flashing around us. While we were waiting for the horses we all piled into the family truck and went up the hillside to find a cactus for the hostel courtyard. Life is always full of surprises here!
I have just done 2 more days horse riding in a different place. Fabulous food, I had a lovely horse that was responsive and sweet natured called ´Buenamosa´which means Pretty Lady. We all drank far too much wine and consequently the afternoon rides went by in a blur and I am sure helped the sore bum syndrome. Great hammock to snooze in and another lovely family run business - all supervised by Enrique. A larger than life charming Argentinian, father and grandfather who has worked with horses all his life. Gorgeous brother and sister and a little boy called Benjamin. I rode with two funny Swiss guys called Philippe and Tom. Of all races, I have met most Swiss on this trip. I have had very little do with Switzerland so it has been a delight to meet so many people from there.
I am exhausted and need to snooze, so goodnight to you all. Just before I go though, for all those tango friends out there I danced tango in the square the other evening. First time since BA. I was walking passed the bankstand and I heard tango music. So went to have a look. A kind man let me squeeze to the front. After the demo they invited dancers onto the floor. The kind man came and asked me. So with hat in one hand and my small rucksack on my back (not to be stolen again!) we took to the floor. It was good fun and proved to me that I hadn´t forgotten everything.
Sleep well - hugs from me Sal xxxxxxxxx
Tuesday, 28 December 2010
Bariloche and places inbetween San Rafael 28th December 2010
Hi Everyone,
I haven`t been avoiding you life just keeps on happening and internet cafes are not always close by.
Bariloche was fabulous but mostly because of the hostel and the delicious group of young guys I called the Puppy Dogs who ran it. It was like living in a mad family where there were buckets full of affection, laughter, friendliness and fun. A great friend that I had made in Peninsula Valdez turned up out of the blue which was lovely too. I did one treck up into the forest and nearly died, realizing how unfit I was. I loved it but didn´t get to the top. Amazing trees and a bamboo type plant particular to Argentina. I also did half a days riding in the foothills of the Andes which was magic. The other 4 people riding with me had not one idea how to ride which made me chuckle. Not even turning left or right!! The family who ran the ride from their farm were welcoming and generous giving us a delicious ásado` with wine and all the trimmings. I felt part of their home.
We also saw condors. As well as the astral lapwings who drive me made with their shrill shrieking to lure us away from their nests. If they just shut up we`d never even notice!!
For those that don`t know Bariloche is an Alpine Lake District sitting on a beautiful lake. It is also an ultimate destination for students finishing their final year at school. So they were every where in groups and hordes just filling up the town. There was also a gang of dogs that lived around the streets - their favourite past time was chasing cars - and when they weren`t doing that they were lurking round tourists hoping for food and affection. Bariloche is also famous for chocolate - shame I don`t like it!
Starting to go north I stopped for a few days in San Martin de los Andes. As a town it felt too pretty, too tidy and too ordered for me - a bit lifeless. However lovely walks, lakes, beautiful woods, wild flowers and views. I palled up with a friend from Paris and we went to visit a Mapuche community up in the hills. On arrival we heard a group of youngsters playing fabulous Andean music - apparently part of a bigger orchestra. I could have listened to them all day. The wife walked with us up into the hills. It had a lovely feel to it this area - she talked about the spirits of the earth and the trees and how the Mapuche try to work in tune with nature. Maybe they have something that we have lost. Each Mapuche family has their own house and some land and each one specializes in growing something or contributing in some way to the whole - be it chickens, sheep what ever. I thought it looked a great plan. I know they have had to fight for their land, and to keep it, and have only in the last 10 years had full communication i.e. internet, phones, but this seemed something to aspire to for all of them. They have their own school and Mapuche is taught for 2 hours a day. However the only thing I will pass on next time is the family `car´that we went back to the village in. The husband said he would give us a lift so we agreed before seeing the MOT certificate! Only one door worked in the back and I have never seen such a dilapidated specimen. The windscreen was peppered with holes and cracks and the seats were all in different states of disrepair, some closer to the ground than others. As we rattled down the hill the dust came up in clouds through the floor and we could hardly see in front of our noses. We survived!
En route to a little town called Alumine the landscape changed to a volcanic skyline - very dramatic. This little town gave me a completely magic experience. I wanted to visit the lakes but the bus had gone and the lass in theTourist Office suggested that I hitch hike. She said it was completely safe. So I set off with my picnic in my little ruchsack and a bottle of water. For a while I walked with a kindly old man on a horse - I haven´t a clue what he was saying but he didn´t seem to mind. Eventually after about 5 kilometres a little car stopped beside me. Inside was a young girl and her 4 year old daughter. I jumped in and off we went. After a little while of chat she invited me to visit her parent`s farm (which was where she was going) as it was the day that her father, brother and her husband plus other gauchos branded the cattle. Would I be interested? I didn`t hesitate. They were an amazing family who didn`t bat an eyelid when a strange English woman turned up to join them for the day. The cattle were driven across a river to a piece of land that was flat and easier to work. We stayed this side. But after a while I said to Marielin that it was very difficult to photograph through the trees. So back we went to the house and I was kitted out with gym shoes and given a sturdy stick. We forded the same river on foot in a very fast flowing current. It was not easy and I certainly didn´t want to fall over with my camera on my hip. However all was well and we walked up to join the gauchos who were just getting on with a days work of lassoeing calves and cows, branding from the fire they had made, dosing them with medicine and clipping their ears. After about 1 hour Marielin asked me if I would like to go for a ride. So we each take a horse and headed up the valley. How wonderful was that. Later in the afternoon we have a second ride in the opposite direction. At the end of the day we all road home on horseback fording the river with some horses carrying 2 of us. I was invited to join them for the inevitable asado which was delicious and then driven back to Alumine by Marielin and her husband and their little daughter. It was a full moon and the landscape was bathed in its light - what a fabulous dreamy day! I am constantly amazed by people`s openheartedness and generosity.
The journey to San Rafael was another 2 day affair. The last lap was more extraordinary landscape this time dotted with monkey puzzle trees that are native to this part of the world and growing in desert like conditions. Extraordinary. Yet another lovely hostel - more Swiss and Israelis with Canadians buying land here. I spent Christmas Eve on a lake swimming and laughing with a gang from the hostel. The lovely family that run it (3) daughters invited us to a meal with them in the evening - Christmas eve is more special to them. I gave everyone a candle to light and make a wish with or remember someone close to them - and of course to light with the meal.
12 of us sat down together and it was great. It was a late night as we chatted and ate and drank into Christmas day.
I am now staying with Kate and her family just outside San Rafael before I make my next jump, my next trip. It is hot now - over 40 centigrade!
As usual I have no idea where I shall be for New Year. But I wish you all lots of special things for 2011, friendship, unexpected moments, dreams coming true and a good life where maybe we make a difference - somehow. I also hope that you all had a wonderful Christmas - I meant to send you good wishes but somehow it never happened. I thought about you!
Lots of Argentinian hugs and much love
Sal xxx
I haven`t been avoiding you life just keeps on happening and internet cafes are not always close by.
Bariloche was fabulous but mostly because of the hostel and the delicious group of young guys I called the Puppy Dogs who ran it. It was like living in a mad family where there were buckets full of affection, laughter, friendliness and fun. A great friend that I had made in Peninsula Valdez turned up out of the blue which was lovely too. I did one treck up into the forest and nearly died, realizing how unfit I was. I loved it but didn´t get to the top. Amazing trees and a bamboo type plant particular to Argentina. I also did half a days riding in the foothills of the Andes which was magic. The other 4 people riding with me had not one idea how to ride which made me chuckle. Not even turning left or right!! The family who ran the ride from their farm were welcoming and generous giving us a delicious ásado` with wine and all the trimmings. I felt part of their home.
We also saw condors. As well as the astral lapwings who drive me made with their shrill shrieking to lure us away from their nests. If they just shut up we`d never even notice!!
For those that don`t know Bariloche is an Alpine Lake District sitting on a beautiful lake. It is also an ultimate destination for students finishing their final year at school. So they were every where in groups and hordes just filling up the town. There was also a gang of dogs that lived around the streets - their favourite past time was chasing cars - and when they weren`t doing that they were lurking round tourists hoping for food and affection. Bariloche is also famous for chocolate - shame I don`t like it!
Starting to go north I stopped for a few days in San Martin de los Andes. As a town it felt too pretty, too tidy and too ordered for me - a bit lifeless. However lovely walks, lakes, beautiful woods, wild flowers and views. I palled up with a friend from Paris and we went to visit a Mapuche community up in the hills. On arrival we heard a group of youngsters playing fabulous Andean music - apparently part of a bigger orchestra. I could have listened to them all day. The wife walked with us up into the hills. It had a lovely feel to it this area - she talked about the spirits of the earth and the trees and how the Mapuche try to work in tune with nature. Maybe they have something that we have lost. Each Mapuche family has their own house and some land and each one specializes in growing something or contributing in some way to the whole - be it chickens, sheep what ever. I thought it looked a great plan. I know they have had to fight for their land, and to keep it, and have only in the last 10 years had full communication i.e. internet, phones, but this seemed something to aspire to for all of them. They have their own school and Mapuche is taught for 2 hours a day. However the only thing I will pass on next time is the family `car´that we went back to the village in. The husband said he would give us a lift so we agreed before seeing the MOT certificate! Only one door worked in the back and I have never seen such a dilapidated specimen. The windscreen was peppered with holes and cracks and the seats were all in different states of disrepair, some closer to the ground than others. As we rattled down the hill the dust came up in clouds through the floor and we could hardly see in front of our noses. We survived!
En route to a little town called Alumine the landscape changed to a volcanic skyline - very dramatic. This little town gave me a completely magic experience. I wanted to visit the lakes but the bus had gone and the lass in theTourist Office suggested that I hitch hike. She said it was completely safe. So I set off with my picnic in my little ruchsack and a bottle of water. For a while I walked with a kindly old man on a horse - I haven´t a clue what he was saying but he didn´t seem to mind. Eventually after about 5 kilometres a little car stopped beside me. Inside was a young girl and her 4 year old daughter. I jumped in and off we went. After a little while of chat she invited me to visit her parent`s farm (which was where she was going) as it was the day that her father, brother and her husband plus other gauchos branded the cattle. Would I be interested? I didn`t hesitate. They were an amazing family who didn`t bat an eyelid when a strange English woman turned up to join them for the day. The cattle were driven across a river to a piece of land that was flat and easier to work. We stayed this side. But after a while I said to Marielin that it was very difficult to photograph through the trees. So back we went to the house and I was kitted out with gym shoes and given a sturdy stick. We forded the same river on foot in a very fast flowing current. It was not easy and I certainly didn´t want to fall over with my camera on my hip. However all was well and we walked up to join the gauchos who were just getting on with a days work of lassoeing calves and cows, branding from the fire they had made, dosing them with medicine and clipping their ears. After about 1 hour Marielin asked me if I would like to go for a ride. So we each take a horse and headed up the valley. How wonderful was that. Later in the afternoon we have a second ride in the opposite direction. At the end of the day we all road home on horseback fording the river with some horses carrying 2 of us. I was invited to join them for the inevitable asado which was delicious and then driven back to Alumine by Marielin and her husband and their little daughter. It was a full moon and the landscape was bathed in its light - what a fabulous dreamy day! I am constantly amazed by people`s openheartedness and generosity.
The journey to San Rafael was another 2 day affair. The last lap was more extraordinary landscape this time dotted with monkey puzzle trees that are native to this part of the world and growing in desert like conditions. Extraordinary. Yet another lovely hostel - more Swiss and Israelis with Canadians buying land here. I spent Christmas Eve on a lake swimming and laughing with a gang from the hostel. The lovely family that run it (3) daughters invited us to a meal with them in the evening - Christmas eve is more special to them. I gave everyone a candle to light and make a wish with or remember someone close to them - and of course to light with the meal.
12 of us sat down together and it was great. It was a late night as we chatted and ate and drank into Christmas day.
I am now staying with Kate and her family just outside San Rafael before I make my next jump, my next trip. It is hot now - over 40 centigrade!
As usual I have no idea where I shall be for New Year. But I wish you all lots of special things for 2011, friendship, unexpected moments, dreams coming true and a good life where maybe we make a difference - somehow. I also hope that you all had a wonderful Christmas - I meant to send you good wishes but somehow it never happened. I thought about you!
Lots of Argentinian hugs and much love
Sal xxx
Saturday, 11 December 2010
How do you talk to a Glacier?
Since I last wrote I have been to El Calafate which is quite far south and sits on a milky turquoise lake. The town is an architect´s dream with random houses all over the place with no need for planning permission for colour, shape, size or position. Lots are pink, mauve, purple, yellow and green of the most extraordinary shapes and sizes. It had a feeling of being temporary but is growing daily as I noticed big hotels half finished and others under constrution. The hostel was run by two lovely young guys with dreadlocks and great smiles. Very friendly. Met people from all over and shared a dorm with a great English couple. The guy reminded me of Rupert a great friend of mine.
So the point of coming to El Calafate was to visit the Perito Moreno glacier. No, I have never seen a glacier before and especially one this size. I took a boat trip to get close and still couldn´t really comprehend this wall of ice towering above me. Inside the ice there are fabulous reflections of blue, purple and turquoise making it seem even more unreal. I just found it very hard to relate to but recognized that it was extraordinary. It is miles long and a kilometre wide. It moves 2 metres a day which is amazing. There are long walk ways that take you close to the glacier. After some lunch I went back again and walked a distance, mostly on my own in a small peaceful wood that ran alongside this white monster that cracked and rumbled like gunshot as parts broke and fell into the lake. It was quite mesmerizing and I have taken endless photographs somehow trying to understand the nature of it. It was a bit like drawing, once I start then I begin to understand the subject matter more and more - so with photographs of the glacier. It was truly awesome.
From the same hostel I spent a day in El Chalten - a town not dissimilar to El Calafate. The idea was to walk for most of the day up into the mountains and see the famous peak of Fitz Roy but the mist came down and the snow and it was not to be. However I found lots of wild flowers I did not know and met a charming Swiss family. Two sons and mother and father on a holiday together. We all ended up having lunch together to recover from the cold. The younger one and I walked together quite a bit. He was on an exchange in Buenos Aires and was fascinated by how emotional the Argentinians were compared to the Swiss - he told me this with a wistful touch to his voice. I wondered whether some countries are ruled by their heads and other countries by their hearts. Switzerland and Argentina seem two good examples - not that I know many Swiss people so that is a huge value judgement!
To reach Bariloche it was a 2 day bus journey up the legendary Route 40. An amazing road which is mostly untarmaced and stretches miles into the distance bordered usually on both sides by ridges and outcrops. Vast stretches of sky that changed as we moved through the landscape. Our bus drivers were called Nelson and Andy - very chatty and relaxed. The rest of the busload turned into a family as we trundled up Argentina. I sat initially with a french guy who had just hitched a lift on a french boat for 20 days, a loner who disappeared half way through the journey to take his own route. The next guy was also French in his 70s but very sweet natured and easy to be with. You learn people´s life stories when you sit on a bus with them for 24 hours. We stopped at a hotel for the night and I shared a room with two young Israeli girls who had just finished their 2 years national service -perhaps not a good thing to mention that most of England supports the Palestinians! However they were well able to defend their position. Apart from being asked out by Nelson the bus driver the journey was just about snoozing, chatting, reading, stopping at Estancias for a break and wondering if it would ever end.
I am now in Bariloche which is on an enormous beautiful lake with crystal clear water and reflections of snow capped mountains. This is a big town which is the haven of the rich to ski, sail, ride, trek, water raft and climb. It is also the centre for chocoholics - this is a speciality of the area - what a shame I don´t like chocolate. The main square has men standing around with St. Bernard dogs - and today they had 2 puppies. The dogs are a lure to have your photograph taken - no thank you! I am not sure if they still use them for serious rescuing - the poor dogs were paraded around with the barrels under their chins.
I am off to the mountains tomorrow hiking with a group from the hostel ........... more of that next time.
I feel a bit more in sympathy with the bad weather you have been having - snow and sleet, but we do have sun too.
Big hug and much love to you all
Sal xxx
sta
So the point of coming to El Calafate was to visit the Perito Moreno glacier. No, I have never seen a glacier before and especially one this size. I took a boat trip to get close and still couldn´t really comprehend this wall of ice towering above me. Inside the ice there are fabulous reflections of blue, purple and turquoise making it seem even more unreal. I just found it very hard to relate to but recognized that it was extraordinary. It is miles long and a kilometre wide. It moves 2 metres a day which is amazing. There are long walk ways that take you close to the glacier. After some lunch I went back again and walked a distance, mostly on my own in a small peaceful wood that ran alongside this white monster that cracked and rumbled like gunshot as parts broke and fell into the lake. It was quite mesmerizing and I have taken endless photographs somehow trying to understand the nature of it. It was a bit like drawing, once I start then I begin to understand the subject matter more and more - so with photographs of the glacier. It was truly awesome.
From the same hostel I spent a day in El Chalten - a town not dissimilar to El Calafate. The idea was to walk for most of the day up into the mountains and see the famous peak of Fitz Roy but the mist came down and the snow and it was not to be. However I found lots of wild flowers I did not know and met a charming Swiss family. Two sons and mother and father on a holiday together. We all ended up having lunch together to recover from the cold. The younger one and I walked together quite a bit. He was on an exchange in Buenos Aires and was fascinated by how emotional the Argentinians were compared to the Swiss - he told me this with a wistful touch to his voice. I wondered whether some countries are ruled by their heads and other countries by their hearts. Switzerland and Argentina seem two good examples - not that I know many Swiss people so that is a huge value judgement!
To reach Bariloche it was a 2 day bus journey up the legendary Route 40. An amazing road which is mostly untarmaced and stretches miles into the distance bordered usually on both sides by ridges and outcrops. Vast stretches of sky that changed as we moved through the landscape. Our bus drivers were called Nelson and Andy - very chatty and relaxed. The rest of the busload turned into a family as we trundled up Argentina. I sat initially with a french guy who had just hitched a lift on a french boat for 20 days, a loner who disappeared half way through the journey to take his own route. The next guy was also French in his 70s but very sweet natured and easy to be with. You learn people´s life stories when you sit on a bus with them for 24 hours. We stopped at a hotel for the night and I shared a room with two young Israeli girls who had just finished their 2 years national service -perhaps not a good thing to mention that most of England supports the Palestinians! However they were well able to defend their position. Apart from being asked out by Nelson the bus driver the journey was just about snoozing, chatting, reading, stopping at Estancias for a break and wondering if it would ever end.
I am now in Bariloche which is on an enormous beautiful lake with crystal clear water and reflections of snow capped mountains. This is a big town which is the haven of the rich to ski, sail, ride, trek, water raft and climb. It is also the centre for chocoholics - this is a speciality of the area - what a shame I don´t like chocolate. The main square has men standing around with St. Bernard dogs - and today they had 2 puppies. The dogs are a lure to have your photograph taken - no thank you! I am not sure if they still use them for serious rescuing - the poor dogs were paraded around with the barrels under their chins.
I am off to the mountains tomorrow hiking with a group from the hostel ........... more of that next time.
I feel a bit more in sympathy with the bad weather you have been having - snow and sleet, but we do have sun too.
Big hug and much love to you all
Sal xxx
sta
Sunday, 5 December 2010
Estancia La Maria and caves 5th December 2010
Travelling on coaches, mainly during the night, gives me a sense of time travelling. I leave one place and all the experiences I had there, the wheels turn and I am spun into another life of new people and new places. This week-end was so different from my time at Peninsula Valdez whale watching and being entranced by the dolphins it felt exactly like that. I had read in the Lonely Planet of this estancia where there were caves with prehistoric paintings in them - like at least 80 caves. Since I read about them in England I had become determined to find this place. I had tried ringing them, but it seemed that it would cost me 1000 pesos in taxi fees to get there. It is in the middle of nowhere with no public transpot in sight. Somebody suggested hitchhiking, but the problem would be the lack of cars, not any danger. At the Tosca Hostel Mariano had said that if it was my destiny I would find a way. I arrived in Puerto San Julian (at 4 .30 a.m) which is the nearest town to the Estancia with Manuela a friend I had met at the Hostel . We tried the Tourist Office when it opened at 8.00 and the lass said that Josefina (the owner of the Estancia) was in town collecting 2 guests but there was probably not enough room for me to but worth trying. We jumped in a taxi to the hostel and miracle of miracles they could sqeeze me in. A very hasty goodbye to Manuela, who was never coming with me at this point, and I was bundled into the 4 wheel drive and we set off on gravel roads for the estancia.
The track to the Estancia is 11 km in distance from a recognizable road. It is a wild, beautiful place with over 300 canyons and at least 80 caves that have cave paintings in them. They farm very little apart from 80 sheep, (I have never seen a fridge full of such enormous bits of raw meat) chickens and their own self sufficiency in the way of vegetables. This is not ´the Good Life´ this is ´The Hard Life`. The water arrives through a heavy duty black hose from a spring 3 km away, the lights only work during the evening and go out when Josefina goes to bed and the wind when it blows is so strong you can lean against it. There is a huge lake close by but since a volcanic eruption in Chile it has dried up and is full of volcanic ash. I had a sense of how vulnerable I was out here. There are puma and they will take sheep. Lorena the daughter learnt to use a gun when she was 11 years old. The father Ferdinando died several years ago but he and Josefina bought the farm together - for her it was love at first sight. The caves became their passion. The canyons and the caves are huge and imposing, I felt dwarfed by their presence. I had a sense of this being an ancient land that has been formed by the elements over thousands of years. The rock formations are awesome in the true sense of the word - they have been formed and moulded into extraordinary shapes; sculptured creatures, holes, crevices, folds and slabs, heavy entrances to deep caves, all in a variety of reds, golds and greys - and in many are these strange paintings - lots are of guanacos, the lama like creatures that still roam free and the family will eat if they can - many have lines signifying pathways and circles - maybe planets, but the most common are hands. These can either be direct hand prints or negative prints spraying the ´paint` over the hand. The paint was made from blood and urine and sand. These paintings are of great significance and archaelogists are working on them still. They were first discovered in 1902 and I think these 2 bought the farm in the 1980s. The previous owners had been uninterested in the paintings - for Josefina and Ferdinando it was a life´s work putting Estancia La Maria on the map.
There is a rich bird life here, notably for me, a pair of Southern Lapwings who screamed at me for most of the time I walked up one particular canyon - they were then attacked by a kestrel. They reminded me of the raucous parakets in Buenos Aires. I suspect the lapwings were trying to distract me from a nest. There is also a wonderful amount of wild flowers here which I love but was unable to name as I did not bring a wild life book with me. Surprisingly there were lots of wild roses and a flower that seemed very similar to an Evening Primrose. In this hostile environment lots of them have spines and spikes. The odd lizard and some very fat black beetles. No pumas in sight, except the skeleton of one hung on a fence. I also came across the complete skeleton of a dead horse. When I enquired what happened to it I was told it died of old age. No sentimental burial here!
Josefina and Lorena now run the farm and the business together. They both have houses in Puerto San Julian and live in town when there are no guests. A local man and his beautiful white horse tend the estancia while they are away. Lorena lives with her partner and is studying to be a Notary. Both she and her mother were welcoming and generous hearted. I hope it works out for them in this financial climate.
The Lonely Planet is fantastic for information on where and how and when but as far as costs go it is way out. Mine was published in 2008 and I probably have to multiply by at least 5 or 6 to get a more realistic cost of hostels. Inflation is escalating. I mentioned to Cliff in a postcard that the cost of milongas when he was out here was about 12 or 15 pesos. It is now 20 to 30 pesos. The Argentinians feel it keenly.
The track to the Estancia is 11 km in distance from a recognizable road. It is a wild, beautiful place with over 300 canyons and at least 80 caves that have cave paintings in them. They farm very little apart from 80 sheep, (I have never seen a fridge full of such enormous bits of raw meat) chickens and their own self sufficiency in the way of vegetables. This is not ´the Good Life´ this is ´The Hard Life`. The water arrives through a heavy duty black hose from a spring 3 km away, the lights only work during the evening and go out when Josefina goes to bed and the wind when it blows is so strong you can lean against it. There is a huge lake close by but since a volcanic eruption in Chile it has dried up and is full of volcanic ash. I had a sense of how vulnerable I was out here. There are puma and they will take sheep. Lorena the daughter learnt to use a gun when she was 11 years old. The father Ferdinando died several years ago but he and Josefina bought the farm together - for her it was love at first sight. The caves became their passion. The canyons and the caves are huge and imposing, I felt dwarfed by their presence. I had a sense of this being an ancient land that has been formed by the elements over thousands of years. The rock formations are awesome in the true sense of the word - they have been formed and moulded into extraordinary shapes; sculptured creatures, holes, crevices, folds and slabs, heavy entrances to deep caves, all in a variety of reds, golds and greys - and in many are these strange paintings - lots are of guanacos, the lama like creatures that still roam free and the family will eat if they can - many have lines signifying pathways and circles - maybe planets, but the most common are hands. These can either be direct hand prints or negative prints spraying the ´paint` over the hand. The paint was made from blood and urine and sand. These paintings are of great significance and archaelogists are working on them still. They were first discovered in 1902 and I think these 2 bought the farm in the 1980s. The previous owners had been uninterested in the paintings - for Josefina and Ferdinando it was a life´s work putting Estancia La Maria on the map.
There is a rich bird life here, notably for me, a pair of Southern Lapwings who screamed at me for most of the time I walked up one particular canyon - they were then attacked by a kestrel. They reminded me of the raucous parakets in Buenos Aires. I suspect the lapwings were trying to distract me from a nest. There is also a wonderful amount of wild flowers here which I love but was unable to name as I did not bring a wild life book with me. Surprisingly there were lots of wild roses and a flower that seemed very similar to an Evening Primrose. In this hostile environment lots of them have spines and spikes. The odd lizard and some very fat black beetles. No pumas in sight, except the skeleton of one hung on a fence. I also came across the complete skeleton of a dead horse. When I enquired what happened to it I was told it died of old age. No sentimental burial here!
Josefina and Lorena now run the farm and the business together. They both have houses in Puerto San Julian and live in town when there are no guests. A local man and his beautiful white horse tend the estancia while they are away. Lorena lives with her partner and is studying to be a Notary. Both she and her mother were welcoming and generous hearted. I hope it works out for them in this financial climate.
The Lonely Planet is fantastic for information on where and how and when but as far as costs go it is way out. Mine was published in 2008 and I probably have to multiply by at least 5 or 6 to get a more realistic cost of hostels. Inflation is escalating. I mentioned to Cliff in a postcard that the cost of milongas when he was out here was about 12 or 15 pesos. It is now 20 to 30 pesos. The Argentinians feel it keenly.
Wednesday, 1 December 2010
Leaving Buenos Aires Ist December 2010
I am now at Puerto Madryn, which is very close to the Peninsula Valdez, in the best hostel in the world - it is small and friendly with lovely staff who are incredibly helpful,with great senses of humour. I have made lots of friends in the brief time I have been here and have made two boat trips - one to watch Franco Astral Whales - I still can´t believe I actually did it - they were amazing - one just continued to surface with her fluke and then smashed it down in the waves - it was truly awesome. This is where they come to breed and then they will go south to the Antarctic. The gestation period is a year, they look after their young for a year and then they have a year off. I didn`t gather what the male whales do - except for the obvious. The second boat trip was to watch Toninos - small delightful black and white dolphins who just played around the boat with extraordinary speed and agility. They made us all laugh - I am not sure why but they were just irrisistible.
This is so different from BA. The musicality tango course with Joaquin was fantastic. He is coming to England in 2012 and it would be wonderful for all our group and more to experience his take on interpretation, timing and rythmn. He was so focussed and inspiring - I shall only remember a small amount of it but that alone will be something. Thank you so much Tony for letting me know about it.
My last week was wonderful - the last milonga at Ideal I danced non stop. Not all amazing dances but I have learnt to hold my own. I have only bought 2 pairs of shoes - so far and one is being altered while I am away travelling. I also took my old faithfuls to the shoemaker. When he asked when I would like to collect them and I replied `March` he was non plused. I hope they are still there when I get back! BA feels like home and I am so pleased I am returning there for my last month. Yes, I had my ups and down, but I ended on an up finding the milongas and Tea Dances that suited me. It all takes time. I have bought another camera so shall try and down load some photos of now. I shall also have a chance to take again some photos round BA that I would like to recapture.. Sadly the Jacaranda trees will be over by then - I know I cant have it all.
Am heading for Puerto San Julian and then across to Calafate and a few glaziers. I leave this great little hostel tomorrow.
I can`t believe that you have snow - it seems extraordinary from this side of the world.
The buses are amazing except one guy who snored and I poured water on his nose - he stopped. We were also stopped twice and searched by police with drug sniffer dogs - the dogs were so fat they could hardly move - obviously well rewarded by their owners.
Much love to all of you lovely people
Sal xxxxxx
This is so different from BA. The musicality tango course with Joaquin was fantastic. He is coming to England in 2012 and it would be wonderful for all our group and more to experience his take on interpretation, timing and rythmn. He was so focussed and inspiring - I shall only remember a small amount of it but that alone will be something. Thank you so much Tony for letting me know about it.
My last week was wonderful - the last milonga at Ideal I danced non stop. Not all amazing dances but I have learnt to hold my own. I have only bought 2 pairs of shoes - so far and one is being altered while I am away travelling. I also took my old faithfuls to the shoemaker. When he asked when I would like to collect them and I replied `March` he was non plused. I hope they are still there when I get back! BA feels like home and I am so pleased I am returning there for my last month. Yes, I had my ups and down, but I ended on an up finding the milongas and Tea Dances that suited me. It all takes time. I have bought another camera so shall try and down load some photos of now. I shall also have a chance to take again some photos round BA that I would like to recapture.. Sadly the Jacaranda trees will be over by then - I know I cant have it all.
Am heading for Puerto San Julian and then across to Calafate and a few glaziers. I leave this great little hostel tomorrow.
I can`t believe that you have snow - it seems extraordinary from this side of the world.
The buses are amazing except one guy who snored and I poured water on his nose - he stopped. We were also stopped twice and searched by police with drug sniffer dogs - the dogs were so fat they could hardly move - obviously well rewarded by their owners.
Much love to all of you lovely people
Sal xxxxxx
Monday, 22 November 2010
Stolen cameras, bloody banks and football!
Hi Everyone,
OK my worst day in BA was last week when I spent most of the morning making futile phone calls to banks trying to release money from one bit of plastic to another - all without success - and all very expensively from an Internet Cafe - being put on hold when you are watching the pesos tick round is a very frustrating exerience.. I was so cross I gave up and will try again this week. Luckily I do have access to money on one piece of plastic that still works so am not penniless in BA. As I was heading off to a Tea Dance to cheer myself up, I was asked directions by a young lad as I entered the Subte. He then continued chatting to me on the train - all very fascinating as he had travelled a lot and spoke quite good English. I nearly missed my stop. As I came up onto the pavement I was just thinking how rich and varied my life was, when I realized that my camera was no longer in its case on my belt. Was he the distraction while his partner stole my camera? I shall never know but all I can say is that they were incredibly skilful. It was attached to my belt and they had to remove it from its case which was on my belt.
The saddest thing for me, which I am over now, was that I foolishly hadn`t downloaded any of my photos - so that`s 2 months of Buenos Aires - gone! Some people just learn the hard way. I have since had fun in a police station with a very sullen constable. My spanish came sharply into focus as I tried to exlain the situation and ask him to give me some verification of the theft for the insurance which he has now done.
Anyway I continued to my Tea Dance feeling decidedly down in the dumps to find that there were loads of women and not many men in sight - not what I needed. I later found out that La Boca was playing River. The finals of the Inter Barrio Football Tournament so all the men were glued to televisions either at home or in every cafe in the city - or actually at the match. Bloody football! A day I would rather forget!!
It`s made a difference this last week meeting Johann, a colourful guy from Shri Lanka. We met at a Tea Dance and have just hung out together, trying different milongas and sharing the odd meal. He has now returned to London as it was just a short trip for him. The next time we meet it will no doubt be on a London dance floor.
The Musicality course that I am doing with Joaquin is fascinating and given me a completely new slant on how to interpret music. It feels like learning to drive a car again. Not only do I dance and listen to my partner and his lead, but now I also can interpret more fully what the music is saying to both of us. It will take a while for this all to filter through but he is a very knowledgeable and skilled teacher. I have given him your e-mail Tony as he has recently published a book on Musicality and would like to do some workshops (partly to promote it) in England and wondered if our area would be a good place to start.
I saw a Hibiscus bush to die for today. It had hug pillar box red flowers and was fiercely proud of itself, almost challenging me to defy its beauty. The Jacaranda trees are startlingly blue but there is a softness and a mist about them - this Hibiscus tree had none of those qualitites - it almost set me on fire as I drew near it.
I had my best ever Milonga last night at Canning. I went with a sense of anxiety as it has not been good for me in the past but some of the Musicality group were going so I thought I might as well try again. Different nights are run by different people and I think this was a neighbourhood night. Slow start but some very lovely dances and I ended up dancing with Carlos till they put the chairs on the tables at 2 a.m. This was utterly surprising - no guarantee next time but does restored my sense in my ability to dance - but also that nothing is set in stone. I also lost my purse that night but someone handed it in to the bar - not that I ever carry much money - but it was good to know people are honest. I also sat on a table with a delightful New Yorker who was trying to tell me her life story as I was desperately trying to cabaceo guys.
Penny, I meant to tell you that your lovely turquoise zip bag you gave me, is my shoe bag in BA, so you are never very far from my thoughts and Suesissima the lovely skirt you bought me in that little London market is definitely my favourite here.
I am sure there`s loads else to say but that will be next time.
Much love to you all
Sal xxx
OK my worst day in BA was last week when I spent most of the morning making futile phone calls to banks trying to release money from one bit of plastic to another - all without success - and all very expensively from an Internet Cafe - being put on hold when you are watching the pesos tick round is a very frustrating exerience.. I was so cross I gave up and will try again this week. Luckily I do have access to money on one piece of plastic that still works so am not penniless in BA. As I was heading off to a Tea Dance to cheer myself up, I was asked directions by a young lad as I entered the Subte. He then continued chatting to me on the train - all very fascinating as he had travelled a lot and spoke quite good English. I nearly missed my stop. As I came up onto the pavement I was just thinking how rich and varied my life was, when I realized that my camera was no longer in its case on my belt. Was he the distraction while his partner stole my camera? I shall never know but all I can say is that they were incredibly skilful. It was attached to my belt and they had to remove it from its case which was on my belt.
The saddest thing for me, which I am over now, was that I foolishly hadn`t downloaded any of my photos - so that`s 2 months of Buenos Aires - gone! Some people just learn the hard way. I have since had fun in a police station with a very sullen constable. My spanish came sharply into focus as I tried to exlain the situation and ask him to give me some verification of the theft for the insurance which he has now done.
Anyway I continued to my Tea Dance feeling decidedly down in the dumps to find that there were loads of women and not many men in sight - not what I needed. I later found out that La Boca was playing River. The finals of the Inter Barrio Football Tournament so all the men were glued to televisions either at home or in every cafe in the city - or actually at the match. Bloody football! A day I would rather forget!!
It`s made a difference this last week meeting Johann, a colourful guy from Shri Lanka. We met at a Tea Dance and have just hung out together, trying different milongas and sharing the odd meal. He has now returned to London as it was just a short trip for him. The next time we meet it will no doubt be on a London dance floor.
The Musicality course that I am doing with Joaquin is fascinating and given me a completely new slant on how to interpret music. It feels like learning to drive a car again. Not only do I dance and listen to my partner and his lead, but now I also can interpret more fully what the music is saying to both of us. It will take a while for this all to filter through but he is a very knowledgeable and skilled teacher. I have given him your e-mail Tony as he has recently published a book on Musicality and would like to do some workshops (partly to promote it) in England and wondered if our area would be a good place to start.
I saw a Hibiscus bush to die for today. It had hug pillar box red flowers and was fiercely proud of itself, almost challenging me to defy its beauty. The Jacaranda trees are startlingly blue but there is a softness and a mist about them - this Hibiscus tree had none of those qualitites - it almost set me on fire as I drew near it.
I had my best ever Milonga last night at Canning. I went with a sense of anxiety as it has not been good for me in the past but some of the Musicality group were going so I thought I might as well try again. Different nights are run by different people and I think this was a neighbourhood night. Slow start but some very lovely dances and I ended up dancing with Carlos till they put the chairs on the tables at 2 a.m. This was utterly surprising - no guarantee next time but does restored my sense in my ability to dance - but also that nothing is set in stone. I also lost my purse that night but someone handed it in to the bar - not that I ever carry much money - but it was good to know people are honest. I also sat on a table with a delightful New Yorker who was trying to tell me her life story as I was desperately trying to cabaceo guys.
Penny, I meant to tell you that your lovely turquoise zip bag you gave me, is my shoe bag in BA, so you are never very far from my thoughts and Suesissima the lovely skirt you bought me in that little London market is definitely my favourite here.
I am sure there`s loads else to say but that will be next time.
Much love to you all
Sal xxx
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