City living in Spanish Wednesday 13th October 10

Hi Everyone,

Tony, I didn`t find the quote at Recoletta or Gardel`s tomb - something to look for on the next visit. I liked the quote - I have seen something rather similar on an English grave.

Great you are coming out to BA, Madeline and Gary. I hope to have returned from my travels and be back in the city by then.

It is really lovely that people put comments and read the blog. Thanks Tim and Sharon. This week I have hit a bit of a brick wall with my Spanish classes and am definitely in the bottom league. Brain seems to be in a constant fog. But I have realised that living in a foreign language is tiring until you learn enough of it for it not to be a major effort - I have to have my dictionary available constantly. Today I gave myself a treat in the afternoon and went to MALBO which is BA`s equivalent to the Tate. Much smaller but a new build that is light an airy. Some pieces of great sculpture, a modern installation video about flies and their collection of modern art from the early 20th century. Also a visiting exhibition. It was very peaceful and quiet and I didn`t have to speak Spanish to anyone except on the way home to find the right bus stop!

I went to a fabulous `Feria de los Matadores` on Sunday. A huge fair with with a main stage where bands played and groups danced. The general population all danced the Checkerera (!) at the drop of a hat - maybe I shall have to learn too. Amazing guachos (I`m sure that`s not how you spell it but my dictionary is not being very helpful tonight) on horseback thundering down a street they had cordoned off. In the centre was a ring that they had to spear with a small dagger like stick - not many did! Very dramatic but I felt for the horses legs on hard tarmac but no-one else seemed very concerned.

OK Sal and Tango in BA. I am having private lessons with a young porteno called Gustavo who also teaches at the school. He is taking me back to basics - again - my line of dance, my posture, my relation to him, my pivots, knees and ankles together etc. He is not fierce but for me at the moment with my emphasis on Spanish and trying to stay awake it is perfect. Next month when I leave the school and Elsa arrives it will be a complete emersion and I shall review who I want to teach me then. Until then I shall milonga at the week-ends, take private tango lessons, explore BA and learn Spanish during the week. The two milongas I went to last week were interesting. One was very traditional with the cabaceo in operation but there was one dance during the evening where the women could ask the men by offering them a chocolate and the men could invite the women by offering them a rose. For me it was a relief to be able to ask the men - accustomed as I am! No one asked me with a rose. But I was sitting on a table with a gang of women who I had met at my first milonga and they were very inclusive and asked their guys to dance with me to give me a start. They reminded me a bit of "Sex in the City" - they were definitely out to have a good time and this milonga was where they felt comfortable and at ease with friends they knew of old.

The second Milonga was a mistake - I went to the wrong one where I was meant to be meeting friends from the School. This one was small and not a cabaceo in sight but it seemed to me that friends had come in groups or couples and were not willing to take a chance on a stranger. So I left after an hour. I know where I am going this Sunday so better luck there. Maybe I shall ring Rose the friend who invited me to the other one and go to one of her milongas. I wasn´t overly impressed with the level of dancing but maybe the good ones weren`t asking. It´s a bit like casting on a river, you never know what you are going to catch!

I love my walk to college every day - there are now familiar landmarks, people, shops and squares, dogs who bark from balconies above my head, the pavement washers, the homeless and the street cafes. I also love that I cross Chile, Mexico and Venezuela on my way to and from home - street names amongst others.

The sunshine is hot when it`s out but it can rain hard as well so don`t be too jealous.

Lots of love to you all
Sal in an Internet Cafe in BA