Bariloche and places inbetween San Rafael 28th December 2010

Hi Everyone,
I haven`t been avoiding you life just keeps on happening and internet cafes are not always close by.
Bariloche was fabulous but mostly because of the hostel and the delicious group of young guys I called the Puppy Dogs who ran it. It was like living in a mad family where there were buckets full of affection, laughter, friendliness and fun. A great friend that I had made in Peninsula Valdez turned up out of the blue which was lovely too. I did one treck up into the forest and nearly died, realizing how unfit I was. I loved it but didn´t get to the top. Amazing trees and a bamboo type plant particular to Argentina. I also did half a days riding in the foothills of the Andes which was magic. The other 4 people riding with me had not one idea how to ride which made me chuckle. Not even turning left or right!! The family who ran the ride from their farm were welcoming and generous giving us a delicious ásado` with wine and all the trimmings. I felt part of their home.
We also saw condors. As well as the astral lapwings who drive me made with their shrill shrieking to lure us away from their nests. If they just shut up we`d never even notice!!

For those that don`t know Bariloche is an Alpine Lake District sitting on a beautiful lake. It is also an ultimate destination for students finishing their final year at school. So they were every where in groups and hordes just filling up the town. There was also a gang of dogs that lived around the streets - their favourite past time was chasing cars - and when they weren`t doing that they were lurking round tourists hoping for food and affection. Bariloche is also famous for chocolate - shame I don`t like it!

Starting to go north I stopped for a few days in San Martin de los Andes. As a town it felt too pretty, too tidy and too ordered for me - a bit lifeless. However lovely walks, lakes, beautiful woods, wild flowers and views. I palled up with a friend from Paris and we went to visit a Mapuche community up in the hills. On arrival we heard a group of youngsters playing fabulous Andean music - apparently part of a bigger orchestra. I could have listened to them all day. The wife walked with us up into the hills. It had a lovely feel to it this area - she talked about the spirits of the earth and the trees and how the Mapuche try to work in tune with nature. Maybe they have something that we have lost. Each Mapuche family has their own house and some land and each one specializes in growing something or contributing in some way to the whole - be it chickens, sheep what ever. I thought it looked a great plan. I know they have had to fight for their land, and to keep it, and have only in the last 10 years had full communication i.e. internet, phones, but this seemed something to aspire to for all of them. They have their own school and Mapuche is taught for 2 hours a day. However the only thing I will pass on next time is the family `car´that we went back to the village in. The husband said he would give us a lift so we agreed before seeing the MOT certificate! Only one door worked in the back and I have never seen such a dilapidated specimen. The windscreen was peppered with holes and cracks and the seats were all in different states of disrepair, some closer to the ground than others. As we rattled down the hill the dust came up in clouds through the floor and we could hardly see in front of our noses. We survived!

En route to a little town called Alumine the landscape changed to a volcanic skyline - very dramatic. This little town gave me a completely magic experience. I wanted to visit the lakes but the bus had gone and the lass in theTourist Office suggested that I hitch hike. She said it was completely safe. So I set off with my picnic in my little ruchsack and a bottle of water. For a while I walked with a kindly old man on a horse - I haven´t a clue what he was saying but he didn´t seem to mind. Eventually after about 5 kilometres a little car stopped beside me. Inside was a young girl and her 4 year old daughter. I jumped in and off we went. After a little while of chat she invited me to visit her parent`s farm (which was where she was going) as it was the day that her father, brother and her husband plus other gauchos branded the cattle. Would I be interested? I didn`t hesitate. They were an amazing family who didn`t bat an eyelid when a strange English woman turned up to join them for the day. The cattle were driven across a river to a piece of land that was flat and easier to work. We stayed this side. But after a while I said to Marielin that it was very difficult to photograph through the trees. So back we went to the house and I was kitted out with gym shoes and given a sturdy stick. We forded the same river on foot in a very fast flowing current. It was not easy and I certainly didn´t want to fall over with my camera on my hip. However all was well and we walked up to join the gauchos who were just getting on with a days work of lassoeing calves and cows, branding from the fire they had made, dosing them with medicine and clipping their ears. After about 1 hour Marielin asked me if I would like to go for a ride. So we each take a horse and headed up the valley. How wonderful was that. Later in the afternoon we have a second ride in the opposite direction. At the end of the day we all road home on horseback fording the river with some horses carrying 2 of us. I was invited to join them for the inevitable asado which was delicious and then driven back to Alumine by Marielin and her husband and their little daughter. It was a full moon and the landscape was bathed in its light - what a fabulous dreamy day! I am constantly amazed by people`s openheartedness and generosity.

The journey to San Rafael was another 2 day affair. The last lap was more extraordinary landscape this time dotted with monkey puzzle trees that are native to this part of the world and growing in desert like conditions. Extraordinary. Yet another lovely hostel - more Swiss and Israelis with Canadians buying land here. I spent Christmas Eve on a lake swimming and laughing with a gang from the hostel. The lovely family that run it (3) daughters invited us to a meal with them in the evening - Christmas eve is more special to them. I gave everyone a candle to light and make a wish with or remember someone close to them - and of course to light with the meal.
12 of us sat down together and it was great. It was a late night as we chatted and ate and drank into Christmas day.

I am now staying with Kate and her family just outside San Rafael before I make my next jump, my next trip. It is hot now - over 40 centigrade!

As usual I have no idea where I shall be for New Year. But I wish you all lots of special things for 2011, friendship, unexpected moments, dreams coming true and a good life where maybe we make a difference - somehow. I also hope that you all had a wonderful Christmas - I meant to send you good wishes but somehow it never happened. I thought about you!

Lots of Argentinian hugs and much love

Sal xxx