Hi Everyone,
I decided to take off for Cafajate for a few days - it is another fascinating town south of Salta. I stayed in a Hostel called Rusty K which is run by friends of the family that own this lovely hostel in Salta. Coincidentally a German lass from this hostel was on the same bus so we joined up with each other for a meal on the main square every evening which was always something to look forward to after our various expeditions.
My first day saw me climbing the hill overlooking Las Ruinas des Quilmes. A vast expanse of excavations that were once an ancient indiginous city - only about 15% has been so far uncovered. The Quilmes survived the Incas but were defeated by the incoming Spanish who deported 5000 people to Buenos Aires. They were forced to walk the distance and many died on the way. As I climbed higher the view became more and more spectacular and I became held by the silence of the mountains around me. It reminded me of Delphi in Greece which has an amazing sense of timelessness and spirituality.
I had then asked the little minibus to drop me at Amaiche del Valle where there is a very unusual museum/gallery/sculpture park to Pachamama. She is Mother Earth and has been central to all the indiginous people´s beliefs since time began. The museum is made up of sculptures, gates, gardens, pools and wonderful walls with designs in and on them. Everything is made out of different stones and shapes and shades of grey, white, black and ranges of natural colours. I wandered around amazed and bemused by it all. Lots of symbols for the elements, shamans and Pachamama. Quite extraordinary and wonderful until I fell into a conversation with a French artist who told me that Hector Cruz who was behind the project is a man who is disliked by everyone. He befriended an artist who did all the plans and completed the work, paying him only in wine. The artist died of alcohol poisoning with no acknowledgement of his enormous contribution to the project. Hector also bought the museum just outside the Quilmes Ruins sold all the contents to a museum in Buenos Aires and then proceeded to build a prestigious hotel on the same spot to make himself some money. This is all so not in spirit of the indiginous people and Pachamama - he is a very unpopular man but he is probably the sort of man that doesn´t give a damn anyway.
The following day I went on a trek into the foothills with a small group and a wonderful guide. We went to find the waterfalls. When we set off I had no idea that this walk would also included some rock climbing. Not huge amounts but enough to be glad that our guide Franco knew exactly what he was doing. His knowledge of every crevice, tree, shrub and rock was phenomenal. He has lived all his life in these mountains and knows them like the back of his hand. We all felt very safe as he asked us to scale areas of rock that at first glance seemed impossible. He took us to places that were sacred and special to him and was so generous in his willingness to share them with us. We drank from water filtered down through a huge rocks, we passed deserted houses where the young no longer wanted to live on the mountains so families had moved into the towns and we swam in freezing cold water in the pools below the waterfalls.
Cactus accompanied us all the way. We all felt that we were in the hands of a caring gentle man whose soul was at peace and in harmony with these surroundings. For me it was very special.
The other thing that I loved about Cafajate was the main square and how it came to life at night... specially on Friday night. Bands played, shifting from one music to another; youngsters careered around on hired bikes; people hired tridems and rode sedately; children had their faces painted; dancers (Dirty Dancing type) lured people from the crowd (me) to dance with them also did jaw dropping routines themselves; 3 phenomenal guys from Tucamen played bombos - drums you hang round your neck and play with 2 sticks on an off the skin using the wooden edge as well. Quite amazing ryhthmns and they also performed fantastic dance routines to the sound of the drum. I was completely transfixed. All around the square were restaurants buzzing with life and many of them had guitarists, singers and folkloric dances performing for the delight of the eaters.....and mingling in amongst all this wonderful entertainment were relaxed people wandering around enjoying the warm evening and the joy of each others company. I liked this place.
So know I am back in Salta with the lovely family at the hostel. I am leaving on Thursday which will be a sad moment. This has felt like home and I love them all but it is time to go.....
Hugs and loads of love to you all
Sal xxxxxxxxxxxxx
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