Mendoza, Cabalgatas and Salta 18th January 2011

Hi Everyone,
As more seems to happen to me there is less time to write, but this is the moment so I shall just pick out the highlights and bring you all up to date ...........

I loved Mendoza with its beautiful squares, cafes and river channels that ran round the town irrigating the trees - it make me think of Aix en Provence. There is money here and it seems a town that is proud of itself. The hostel was in the middle of clubland with very buzzy restaurants. I arrived at about midnight and just went and sat in a cafe to soak up the atmosphere. Hostel was run by another delightful gang of youngsters who took me to their hearts. I was sleeping in what I can only describe as the laundry cupboard. It had loads of shelves, hangers, shoe wracks and cupboards. It was apparently the dressing room when the house was a more luxurious residence. My little bed was squeezed in the middle. I loved it! The hostel also had a swimming pool which was a big bonus for me.

2 memorable things happened to me in Mendoza. The first was that I had my small rucksack stolen while I was sitting in my favourite cafe. I had placed the bag between my feet and I suddenly realized that it had gone. I swung round in my seat in time to see the man making off with it. I leapt out of my seat and screamed after him yelling at the top of my voice "You´ve got my bloody bag!"or words to that effect. I was furious because in the bag was my second camera that replaced the one that I had had stolen in BA. Either he wasn`t a very experienced thief or it was all too public. Anyway I caught up with him and he meekly gave it back to me. I was very proud of myself!!

The other lovely thing was I booked in to do a 2 day horsetrek (gabalgata) and booking in at the same time was Emilie a delightful Dutch girl. We instantly became huge friends and had the time of our lives fording fast flowing rivers, exploring canyons, finding wild horses,watching condors, riding up ridges and down the other side, camping under the stars with supper cooked for us on a campfire by Diego and Jose our two gauchos. It was very magical.

Emilie was heading for Salta so I decided to go too. Back on the coaches again - an 18 hour trip this time. I love Salta probably more than anywhere else. It has a colonial history and beautiful 18th Century buildings and colonades around the main square. A pink cathedral and some museums that I have really enjoyed, including some interesting contemporary art. Jorge always greets me with a hug at my favourite bar. The villages around Salta are fabulous with loads of tempting things from Peru and Bolivia and other wares all made by local Argentinians. Markets are a haven if you like being tempted! I have done excursions to several villages and they all have their own charm and specialties. Emilie only had a short time in Salta so we did the Salt Plains together which are just that. They stretch for miles with rows of pale turquoise pans where they take off the salt. On the same trip we drove up the gorge where ´The Train in the Clouds´goes. Sadly it is no longer available to tourists as there are many rock falls and is considered too dangerous. So now it just carries gas to Bolivia.

The landscapes are ever changing from precipitous mountain roads, to almost rain forest climate, to plains that are cultivating tobacco. The Mountain heights can be up to 4,000 above sea level and on one excursion we were given coca leaves to chew to help with sickness and headaches and altitude problems. Vast amounts of Coca leaves make cocaine but everyone assured us that this was completely legal!

I am in a delightful, clean (kitchens can be a complete nightmare so this is a real treat) family run hostel called ´Salta por Siempre´. I have been here for about 5 days now and know everyone well. The family invited me to go riding with them. It was mad and magical galloping home by moonlight with fireflies flashing around us. While we were waiting for the horses we all piled into the family truck and went up the hillside to find a cactus for the hostel courtyard. Life is always full of surprises here!

I have just done 2 more days horse riding in a different place. Fabulous food, I had a lovely horse that was responsive and sweet natured called ´Buenamosa´which means Pretty Lady. We all drank far too much wine and consequently the afternoon rides went by in a blur and I am sure helped the sore bum syndrome. Great hammock to snooze in and another lovely family run business - all supervised by Enrique. A larger than life charming Argentinian, father and grandfather who has worked with horses all his life. Gorgeous brother and sister and a little boy called Benjamin. I rode with two funny Swiss guys called Philippe and Tom. Of all races, I have met most Swiss on this trip. I have had very little do with Switzerland so it has been a delight to meet so many people from there.

I am exhausted and need to snooze, so goodnight to you all. Just before I go though, for all those tango friends out there I danced tango in the square the other evening. First time since BA. I was walking passed the bankstand and I heard tango music. So went to have a look. A kind man let me squeeze to the front. After the demo they invited dancers onto the floor. The kind man came and asked me. So with hat in one hand and my small rucksack on my back (not to be stolen again!) we took to the floor. It was good fun and proved to me that I hadn´t forgotten everything.

Sleep well - hugs from me Sal xxxxxxxxx